Mumbai itinerary for one, two or three days

Day 1: the Fort, Kala Ghoda and Marine Drive

1. Late morning: CST and the Fort on foot

   Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus, the Gothic station of 1888 and a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2004, is best seen between the commuter peaks, roughly 10:30 to 17:00. Then walk south through the Fort past St Thomas' Cathedral, the city's oldest English church, to Horniman Circle and Flora Fountain: a slow hour.

2. Midday: Kala Ghoda and CSMVS

   CSMVS, the former Prince of Wales Museum, is the city's finest, from Indus Valley seals to Mughal miniatures; allow two or three hours, and the foreigner ticket includes an audio guide. Next door is the free Jehangir Art Gallery, and the blue Keneseth Eliyahoo Synagogue is a few steps away (carry ID).

3. Afternoon: the Gateway and the Taj

   The Gateway of India faces the harbour, and across the road stands The Taj Mahal Palace of 1903.

4. Dusk: Marine Drive

   End on Marine Drive, the 3 km Art Deco crescent from Nariman Point to Chowpatty; after sunset its lights make it the Queen's Necklace.

Day 2: Elephanta and Malabar Hill

1. Morning: Elephanta Caves

   Ferries leave the Gateway of India for Elephanta, about an hour across the harbour, where the caves were carved from basalt between the 5th and 8th centuries. The Trimurti, a six-metre, three-headed bust of Shiva, is the reason to go. Give it half a day; in the monsoon sailings depend on the weather.

2. Afternoon: Mahalakshmi and Haji Ali

   Mahalakshmi Temple, the city's main shrine to Lakshmi, stands on a rock at the sea's edge. Nearby, Haji Ali Dargah sits on an islet reached by a causeway across the bay: check the tide and the sea before setting out, and stay for qawwali around dusk if you can. Mahalakshmi asks for shoulders and knees covered, and both ask you to take your shoes off; see the temple dress code.

3. Late afternoon: Banganga and the Hanging Gardens

   On Malabar Hill, Banganga Tank, a stone tank of 1127 ringed with steps and small temples, hides behind the towers. At the crest of the hill, the Hanging Gardens and Kamala Nehru Park look down on the whole arc of Marine Drive: time it for the moment the lights come on.

Day 3: the old bazaars, from dawn

1. Dawn: Dadar flower market or Sassoon Docks

   The wholesale flower market around the Dadar flyover peaks between about five and seven. Or go to Sassoon Docks in Colaba, where the fish auction starts around five and is done by seven. Ask before photographing anyone at either.

2. Early morning: Dhobi Ghat

   At Dhobi Ghat, the open-air laundry working since the late 19th century, the view is from the railway bridge, and washing is in full swing roughly 7:00 to 10:00.

3. Late morning: Crawford Market to Zaveri Bazaar

   Start at Crawford Market for spices, tea and dried fruit, then walk north into the lanes of Zaveri Bazaar, India's largest jewellery bazaar, to Mumba Devi, the goddess the city is named after, and the fabric maze of Mangaldas Market.

4. Afternoon: Mani Bhavan

   Mani Bhavan on Laburnum Road was Gandhi's Mumbai base from 1917 to 1934; his room on the top floor is kept as it was, spinning wheel included.

Plan around the weekdays

• Monday — Elephanta (caves and ferry), the Kanheri Caves and the National Gallery of Modern Art are closed. Make it the Fort and Marine Drive day.
• Wednesday — The Dr Bhau Daji Lad Museum and the Rani Baug gardens and zoo, which share one compound in Byculla, are both closed.
• Sunday — Mangaldas Market and Zaveri Bazaar are closed, so keep the bazaar day off Sunday.
• Tuesday and Thursday — Tuesday is Ganesha's day and the queue at Siddhivinayak is at its longest. Haji Ali is most crowded on Thursdays, Fridays and Sundays.

Day four, and the season