Zaveri Bazaar

India's largest jewellery bazaar is a lattice of lanes north of Crawford Market, barely two metres across in places, where Gujarati and Marwari goldsmiths settled in the 19th century. Something like two-thirds of the country's gold trade still moves through here, in shops that range from century-old family houses, the original Tribhovandas Bhimji Zaveri among them, to silver stalls the size of a cupboard. Closed Sundays. Even buying nothing, the craftsmanship and the density are worth the walk, and Mumba Devi temple is right there.

Two-thirds of India's gold changing hands in lanes barely two metres wide