India guide

Tricks Worth Knowing About in Advance

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A city quest where you already know all the answers.

India isn't a dangerous country, but it is a very enterprising one. Almost every tourist trick here is a theatrical production working from an old script: if you know the plot, the show falls apart at the first line. Below is the whole repertoire: read it once, and most of these scenarios will announce themselves before they even begin.

The taxi theatre

  • "Your hotel is closed / burned down / has moved" (Delhi airport, Paharganj, Jaipur). The driver "calls the hotel," they "confirm it," and you're driven to a "brother's office" where they sell you a different hotel and tours. Your answer: "We're going to the address." You have a booking, and the hotel hasn't burned down.
  • Skipping the prepaid desk: "the booth is closed, come with me." Many airports have an official prepaid desk: the price is fixed on a receipt before you get in. If the desk is closed, use an app or the airport's official taxi kiosk, not a random driver in the arrivals hall. Simpler still: Uber/Ola from the official zone, or a local app (in Goa, GoaMiles).
  • "The meter is broken": either the meter/app, or a price named BEFORE you get in. Haggling after the ride is always lost.

Fake 'government' tourist offices

A Delhi classic: around Connaught Place and on the approaches to New Delhi station, dozens of signs read "Government of India Tourist Office." There's only one real government office (India Tourism, Janpath 88); everything else is an agency selling tours at three times the price. A related scenario at the station: "your ticket is invalid / the platform is closed, come and let's re-issue it"; this doesn't happen. Your ticket is only ever checked by uniformed railway staff: at the platform entrance or at the train.

A flower in your hand

On the ghats of Varanasi and Pushkar, someone places flowers in your hand "as a gift" and leads you to the water "for a blessing," then, after the ceremony, demands a donation, sometimes "for each family member" (in Pushkar this is called a "Pushkar passport": a red thread around your wrist). The rules are simple: don't take anything from anyone's hands; if you want a real puja, arrange it with a temple pandit (pujari) in advance for a specific sum (₹51–101 is a respectable donation). You never need a "ticket" or a thread to reach the lake or the ghats; they're always free.

Gems you'll 'resell back home'

Jaipur, Agra, Pushkar: a charming new acquaintance takes you to a shop with "wholesale prices" on gemstones, "resell them at home for double." The stones are glass; the "certificates" come from a printer. The same mechanism runs with carpets and "duty-free shipping." The rule: make serious purchases only in shops with fixed prices and card payment; nothing "for resale."

The small street genre

  • Milk for the baby: they ask not for money but for you to "buy some milk"; the tin goes straight back to the shop and the takings are split.
  • A bracelet/rakhi "as a gift" from a "holy man" → a demand for money. Hands in your pockets, a smile, "no."
  • Photos with locals: five selfies later, a "photographer" appears with a bill. Take photos on your own phone.
  • Change and banknotes: count it in front of the vendor; don't accept torn notes as change (they won't be taken later; only a bank will exchange them).
  • ATMs: a "helper" at the terminal = walk off to an ATM inside a bank branch. Never let your card out of your hands, anywhere.
  • A lassi "with a surprise": don't accept food or drinks from fellow passengers on trains, and don't order a "special" bhang lassi outside licensed shops. The stories of spiking and emptied backpacks are real.

Three golden rules

  1. Anything that begins with "my friend," "specially for you," or "only today" is a performance.
  2. Price and route are fixed before, not after.
  3. A firm "no, thank you" and simply walking on usually ends the conversation. Don't argue or try to expose the person; just move toward a crowded spot, the venue's staff, or the police.