Jehangir Art Gallery

Four halls, up to three hundred shows a year and no entry fee, which means the gallery is never twice the same and never a commitment. Sir Cowasji Jehangir founded it in 1952 at the urging of the physicist Homi Bhabha and the painter K. K. Hebbar, and it has been the address for Indian artists since: a graduating student in one hall, a name that sells abroad in the next. Artists often sit beside their own work and will talk if you start. It anchors the Kala Ghoda art district, next door to the CSMVS museum.

Free entry, and the walls change every few days: Indian art without the museum ticket