Ujjain itinerary for one, two or three days

The 4:00 am Bhasma Aarti needs a booking on the temple's official website; arrange the ride the evening before. Without a booking, join the general queue for darshan in the morning, or book a Sheeghra Darshan pass on the same website. See Ujjain aarti and the dress code.

On the way in, look for Chaubis Khamba Dwar, the medieval gateway on twenty-four carved pillars that once led into the Mahakalvan precinct.

Harsiddhi, one of the 51 Shakti Peethas, stands between Mahakal and Ram Ghat. From there walk down to the Shipra at Ram Ghat, the main ghat of the city, and on to Durgadas ki Chhatri, a Rajput memorial on the bank at Chakratirth.

The 19th-century Maratha temple to Krishna stands in the middle of the main bazaar. The lanes around it, towards Chhatri Chowk, sell rudraksha, brass lamps, puja goods and saris; more on the markets page.

The corridor of carved sandstone pillars, sculptures and murals is free to walk and at its best after sunset, when the lighting comes on. Vikram Teela, with the Singhasan Battisi figures, stands on a mound in Rudra Sagar beside it, and the temple committee lists a water-screen and fountain show at Rudra Sagar daily at 8 pm. Or go down to Ram Ghat for the Shipra aarti, which the India GO guide puts at sunset.

Three galleries, Shaiva, Vaishnava and Shakta, that explain why one city holds so many kinds of shrine. Forty-five minutes is enough; it opens at about 8:00 and is closed on Tuesdays.

Three sites on one short loop above the Shipra that fit into an hour or two: the Kali temple where, by tradition, Kalidasa worshipped; the rock-cut meditation chambers named for Bhartrihari, where half an hour is enough; and the shrine of Matsyendranath, honoured by Hindus and Muslims.

The guardian of the city, where liquor is offered to the deity. Shoes off, shoulders covered.

An immense old banyan on the bank where families perform rites for their ancestors. Keep a respectful distance and ask before photographing anyone.

Mangalnath, on a rise above the river, is named as the birthplace of Mars. Sandipani Ashram is where, by tradition, Krishna, Balarama and Sudama studied.

About 7 km from the centre, across the Shipra: three forms of Ganesha side by side in the sanctum. Wednesdays are the busiest; an auto there and back with a 30-minute wait is approximately ₹200–300.

The observatory Sawai Jai Singh II built in the early 18th century still computes the local almanac. Open from sunrise to sunset; go early or late, as it is unshaded at midday.

A 15th-century water palace on an island in the Shipra, about 8 km north of the centre. Go early: there is little shade.

From about November to February, Undasa, a few kilometres north, draws wintering waterbirds; go early and carry water, as there are no facilities. Naulakhi Eco Tourism Park on the Maksi road has walking paths and ponds, open roughly 6:00 to 18:00.

For a day out to Omkareshwar or Indore, hire a car rather than an auto.