Kal Bhairav Temple

Of all Ujjain's temples, this is one of the most memorable. Kal Bhairav is Shiva in his wrathful time-devouring form, the guardian deity of Ujjain itself, appointed (in myth) by Lord Shiva to watch over the city.

The temple is best known for one practice: devotees offer liquor directly to the murti. A priest holds a small dish of country liquor or whisky to the deity's lips, and the liquid appears to drain away into the stone. Pilgrims have been bringing bottles for centuries; rationalist investigations have never fully explained the phenomenon, and the temple authorities have never commented.

Practically speaking, you'll find liquor vendors right outside the gate selling small cups and bottles at ₹20–100 to use as offering. The drained liquor is returned as prasad to the worshipper. Whether you participate or just observe, the ritual is extraordinary. Liquor is one of the five tantric offerings (panchamakara), and the worship of Kal Bhairav has long been associated with the Kapalika and Aghora traditions, for which Ujjain was a prominent centre.

The temple is 8th-century, rebuilt several times. It sits on the banks of the Shipra, a 10-minute auto ride from Mahakaleshwar. Shoes off; cover your shoulders. Come early morning for quiet, or during the evening aarti for the full atmosphere.

Where liquor is offered to the deity