Shri Dwarkadhish Gopal Mandir

A 19th-century Maratha temple to Krishna as Dwarkadhish, raised by Bayajibai Shinde, queen of Daulat Rao Shinde: a marble spire, a marble-inlaid sanctum and a silver Krishna about two feet high. The silver-plated doors are held to be the ones Mahmud of Ghazni took from the Somnath temple in 1026 and carried to Ghazni; they were moved later to Lahore, and finally recovered by Mahadji Scindia and installed here. The temple stands in the middle of the main bazaar, so it folds easily into an hour of shopping. Janmashtami is the busiest day. Shoes off, modest dress.

Doors that needed a thousand years and three cities to find their way back