Kochi itinerary: one, two or three days

Day 1: Fort Kochi and Mattancherry

1. Morning: the colonial quarter

   Start at St. Francis Church, the oldest European church in India, first built in wood in 1503; Vasco da Gama was buried here before his remains went to Lisbon. A couple of minutes away is the walled Dutch Cemetery, consecrated in 1724. Then the Santa Cruz Basilica and the Indo-Portuguese Museum, whose basement holds wall remains of the original Portuguese fort.

2. Then: Mattancherry

   Take a rickshaw to Mattancherry and its spice street, Bazaar Road. Around noon the pigeons are fed in the courtyard of the Dharmanath Jain Temple, a daily ritual visitors may join. Mattancherry Palace holds Ramayana and Mahabharata murals, and the Paradesi Synagogue of 1568, floored in hand-painted Chinese tiles, stands at the end of Jew Town's antique lanes. Kerala Tourism gives its visiting hours as 10:00 to 12:00 and 15:00 to 17:00, so plan around the midday closure.

3. Evening: Kathakali or the nets

   At the Kerala Kathakali Centre the make-up is applied in front of ticket holders from 5 pm and the performance runs from 6 to 7 pm (about ₹600). Sunset at the Chinese fishing nets falls in the same hours, so pick one; fish bought at the stalls by the nets can be grilled at a cooking stall next to them.

Day 2: Ernakulam and royal Tripunithura

1. Morning: Hill Palace and the royal temple

   The Hill Palace Museum, about 12 km south-east of Ernakulam, was the Cochin royal family's official residence, built in 1865: 49 buildings on 54 acres, royal regalia, murals and a deer park. Next to it, the Sree Poornathrayeesa Temple was the maharajas' family shrine; traditional dress applies and shoes come off at the gate.

2. Afternoon: central Ernakulam

   Back in the centre, the Durbar Hall Art Gallery, the old royal audience hall, shows national and international exhibitions, most of them free, a few steps from the Ernakulathappan Shiva Temple that gave Ernakulam its name. On a rainy day, swap this for the Kerala Museum by Edappally metro.

3. Sunset: Marine Drive, then the boat

   Walk Marine Drive at sunset and take the boat back to Fort Kochi: the Water Metro runs until about 20:00, the state ferry until about 21:10.

Day 3: out on the water

1. A village island: Kumbalangi

   Kumbalangi, about 15 km away, was chosen in 2003 as India's first model tourism village. A village operator runs a full day (11:00–17:00) and a half day (10:00–13:00) with canoes through the mangroves, coir-making and lunch, from about ₹1,500 (half day) and ₹2,000 (full day) per person; homestays take guests directly.

2. Vypin: lighthouse, fort and beach

   The ferry from Fort Kochi crosses to Vypin every ten minutes. The Puthuvype lighthouse, Kerala's tallest at 46 metres and fitted with a lift, is about ten minutes from the jetty; it opens to visitors in the afternoon and is closed on Mondays. At the north end of the island, about 25 km out, stand Pallipuram Fort of 1503 and the long sand of Cherai Beach.

3. Paddy islands at golden hour

   Kadamakkudy, fourteen islands about 15 km from the city, is a sunset drive past pokkali paddy, channels and village lanes; October to April is the season. Go by scooter or car toward Pizhala, or take a country boat through the channels.

Before you set the days

• Mondays — The Indo-Portuguese Museum, Bastion Bungalow, the Naval Maritime Museum, Hill Palace, the Kerala Museum and the Puthuvype lighthouse are closed. Use Monday for Mattancherry and the islands.
• Fridays and Saturdays — Mattancherry Palace is closed on Fridays, according to the Ministry of Culture's museums portal. Kerala Tourism lists the Paradesi Synagogue as closed on Fridays, Saturdays and Jewish holidays.
• Where to sleep — Fort Kochi for the old town on foot; Ernakulam for trains, the airport road and the metro. See where to stay in Kochi.
• Season — December to February is the best window. From June to September heavy rain can interrupt the boats, so keep a road option. More on the best time to visit Kochi.