What to buy in Jaipur

The pattern is stamped with carved wooden blocks, one block per colour. Two local styles: Sanganeri, fine small florals on white and off-white cotton, a style with its own geographical indication, and Bagru, printed with dabu (a mud resist) and natural dyes, so the pattern shows pale on red, black and indigo grounds. Buy shirts, tunics, scarves, bedspreads and bedding at Bapu Bazaar, or at source in Sanganer (about 16 km south) and Bagru (about 32 km west). Quality depends on the density of the cloth and the fastness of the dye, so check both before you pay.

Jaipur is one of the world's largest gem-cutting centres: emeralds, rubies and sapphires are faceted here, and silver and gold jewellery is made. Johari Bazaar is the main street for it, alongside specialist certified stores. Prices are quoted high and bargaining is normal. The Gem Palace on MI Road, run by the Kasliwal family since 1852, is worth entering just to look; gem-set silver sits next to the heritage pieces.

Jaipur's blue pottery is made from a quartz-based paste with no clay in it, which gives the glaze its glassy cobalt and turquoise. The craft was revived in the 1960s by Kripal Singh Shekhawat, awarded the Padma Shri, and his family still sells lamps, tiles, boxes and tea sets from the Kripal Kumbh studio in Bani Park. For demonstrations on a larger scale, there is the Jaipur Blue Pottery Art Centre on Amer Road.

Tripolia Bazaar is the bangle street, and in Maniharon ka Rasta, the bangle-makers' lane off it, families still soften lac over a flame and press coloured stones into it while it is warm. Buy matched sets, single statement cuffs or the cheaper glass-and-lac mixes, and ask for a set to be sized on your wrist: it is reheated and adjusted in front of you.

Jootis are the flat embroidered leather slippers of Rajasthan. Nehru Bazaar, between Ajmeri Gate and New Gate, is the jooti market, at approximately ₹300 to ₹2,500 a pair depending on the work; Bapu Bazaar sells them too, along with the quilted razai Jaipur is known for.

In Chandpol Bazaar and Khajane Walon ka Rasta, the marble carvers' street, you can watch a figure being cut and buy from the carver; pieces run approximately ₹200 to ₹8,000. Kishanpole Bazaar has carved wood, brass, bandhani tie-dye and boxes and small tables inlaid with semi-precious stones: a good piece has even inlay and smooth edges, so run a finger along them before agreeing a price.

Jaipur's workshops weave silk, wool and mixed carpets; you can watch the weaving and order your own design, and silk is the most expensive. Lighter to carry: books from Books Corner on MI Road, at the same address since 1967 and strong on Rajasthan's history and art.