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Old Delhi: Chandni Chowk and Jama Masjid
Old City
Old Delhi is Shah Jahan's 17th-century walled city, and the densest few square kilometres of Delhi: Chandni Chowk down the middle, Jama Masjid on its hill, single-trade lanes on every side. Come hungry and early on a weekday, work westwards from the mosque, and come back after dark for its lights.
👥 Who it suits
first time in Delhi street food hunters photographers
Staying here
Staying here suits lovers of busy streets; the classic bases, Connaught Place and Paharganj, are next door.
🌙 In the evening
Shops wind down after sunset, so come by day and end at the illuminated Jama Masjid.
Getting there
Ⓜ Chandni Chowk · Jama Masjid
What to see
Where to eat
Shopping
Where to stay
👣 A walk through the old city
Follow the lanes, not the map.
- Breakfast at Chawri Bazar
Start at Chawri Bazar metro with the old-city breakfast: chole kulche at Lotan, which stops when the day's batch is gone, or bedmi puri and nagori halwa at Shyam Sweets.
- Jama Masjid
Walk up to Jama Masjid before the midday prayer, when it closes to sightseers. The southern minaret can be climbed for the view over the old city's rooftops. The Red Fort is a short walk east.
- Dariba Kalan to Chandni Chowk
From the mosque take Dariba Kalan, the silver lane, north to Chandni Chowk; the first price there can fall three or four times. At the corner, Old Famous Jalebi Wala has fried in ghee for over a century.
- Along Chandni Chowk
On Chandni Chowk itself: Gurudwara Sis Ganj Sahib, where the ninth Sikh Guru was executed in 1675 (head covered, shoes off). Then turn into the side lanes: Paranthe Wali Gali for stuffed parathas, Natraj at its mouth for dahi bhalla, Kinari Bazaar for wedding tinsel and Hazari Lal's khurchan (layered milk cream).
- Ballimaran: Ghalib's courtyard
Further west, turn into Ballimaran for Ghalib ki Haveli, the poet's last home.
- Fatehpuri and Khari Baoli
At the western end: Chaina Ram for Karachi halwa, Giani's for rabri-faluda, then Khari Baoli, the spice market. The rooftop of the Gadodia Market building gives the view over Old Delhi.
Which days and seasons work
On Sunday Khari Baoli is closed and some Chandni Chowk shops close; the exception is the Sunday-only book market, now at Mahila Haat near Delhi Gate. Ghalib ki Haveli is closed on Mondays.
Winter brings daulat ki chaat, milk foam sold around Kinari Bazaar on cold mornings until mid-morning (more). Summer brings Kuremal's kulfi frozen inside whole fruit, near Chawri Bazar. During Ramzan, the month before Eid al-Fitr (10 March 2027), the lanes off Jama Masjid's Gate No. 1 cook through the evening (Eid in Delhi). The Red Fort usually closes to visitors for about a month before Independence Day (15 August 2027).
Old Delhi and its neighbours
Connaught Place is two stops from Chawri Bazar on the Yellow Line, and Paharganj by New Delhi station is next door: both are easier bases than the old city, where the choice of beds is small (a restored haveli and a hostel by Delhi Gate; see where to stay).
Old Delhi is for bargaining over spices, silver and fabric; for fixed prices, see Janpath first. The other Muslim quarter, with kebabs and Sufi song, is Nizamuddin. The Tibetan quarter is further up the same Yellow Line.
Meat is around Jama Masjid (Karim's, Al Jawahar); the paratha, chaat and sweet trades are vegetarian. Official UK travel advice is to take care of your belongings in crowds. More in Delhi street food and safety in Delhi.
❓ FAQ
What time is Chandni Chowk open?
Delhi Tourism gives the market's hours as about 10:30 am to 9 pm, with some outlets closed on Sunday. The breakfast stalls open earlier and often sell out by mid-morning.
Which day should I avoid in Old Delhi?
Sunday: Khari Baoli is closed and some Chandni Chowk shops close. Go Monday to Saturday, but note Ghalib ki Haveli closes on Mondays.
Which metro station is best for Chandni Chowk?
Chandni Chowk or Chawri Bazar on the Yellow Line, or Jama Masjid on the Violet Line. For the route on this page, start at Chawri Bazar.
Is it a good idea to stay in Old Delhi?
Yes, if you want the lanes on your doorstep early in the morning, but the choice is small; Connaught Place and Paharganj next door are easier.
Facts checked: 8 October 2026. Prices and hours are approximate; check locally.
Other areas of Delhi
In the app: the city's areas on the map, the places inside and a route.
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