India GONagori halwa in Delhi
Nagori halwa is an Old Delhi breakfast and nothing else: tiny puffed semolina puris called nagori, a bowl of semolina halwa and a spoon of potato curry, sold by the halwais (sweet-makers) of Chawri Bazar and Chandni Chowk from early morning until it runs out. The classic address is Shyam Sweets, working since 1910; Jung Bahadur Kachori Wala serves it next to its kachori. Plan on being there before nine.
🍮 Nagori Halwa
Old Delhi breakfast: tiny puffed nagori puris with a bowl of semolina halwa and a spoon of potato curry. It is sweet and savoury on one plate, eaten before nine.
How it's eaten
Sold from around six in the morning until it runs out, which in Chandni Chowk is well before noon.
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Two counters, one breakfast
Both are in the lanes around Chandni Chowk, both are vegetarian and cheap (price level ₹), and both fry through the morning rush.
Shyam Sweets, Chawri Bazar
A century-old halwai, working since 1910, known for exactly this breakfast: bedmi puri with spiced potato sabzi, and nagori with halwa. Everything is fried fresh through the morning and the sweets are made on site. Finish with a warm nagori and halwa even if you started with bedmi.
Jung Bahadur Kachori Wala, Chandni Chowk
Near Paranthe Wali Gali, the shop that made khasta kachori famous in Delhi, open since 1971. Two crisp, flaky kachoris arrive drowned in thick, spicy potato gravy over a fast counter. Add a bowl of hot nagori halwa and you have the full Old Delhi breakfast, salty and sweet together.
Nagori or bedmi?
The two breakfasts share a counter and the potato curry. Nagori is the small, crisp semolina puri: you break it, fill it with halwa and go back to the potato for salt and spice. Bedmi is a heavier fried bread eaten with the same curry. At Shyam Sweets the habit is both: bedmi for the savoury start, nagori and halwa to round it off.
The set is vegetarian, with no egg: semolina, ghee, sugar and potato. What nagori is, and what goes into the halwa, is on the nagori halwa page.
✅ Getting the timing right
- Early: it is sold from around six in the morning until it runs out, which in Chandni Chowk is well before noon.
- Weekdays: many Old Delhi shops close on Sunday, and some shut through the day during Ramzan.
- Metro: take the Yellow Line to Chawri Bazar or Chandni Chowk and walk into the lanes.
- With a guide: the Delhi Heritage Walks food walk starts in the morning for the breakfast trades, from about ₹1,000 with food (approx., checked September 2026); see food tours in Delhi.
More morning food on breakfast in Delhi.
❓ FAQ
What is nagori halwa?
An Old Delhi breakfast set: tiny semolina puris (nagori), sweet semolina halwa and a spoon of potato curry, eaten together.
Where can I eat nagori halwa in Delhi?
Around Chandni Chowk: Shyam Sweets at Chawri Bazar, working since 1910, and Jung Bahadur Kachori Wala near Paranthe Wali Gali, where it comes alongside khasta kachori.
What time should I go?
Early. It is sold from around six in the morning until it runs out, usually well before noon; aim for before nine.
Is nagori halwa vegetarian?
Yes. It is semolina, ghee, sugar and potato, with no meat or egg. Both shops named here are vegetarian.