What to eat in Delhi
☁️ Daulat ki Chaat
Winter mornings in Old Delhi only: milk foam set under dew, sold before the sun is high and gone by noon.
🫓 Chole Bhature
Punjab's heavy breakfast: spiced chickpeas with a bhatura, a deep-fried bread that arrives inflated like a balloon and deflates while you watch.
🫓 Aloo parantha
A whole lane in Old Delhi is named after the shops that make nothing else.
🥟 Bedai
A thick puri stuffed with spiced urad dal, fried dark and served with a watery, peppery potato sabzi. Mathura and Agra eat it at seven in the morning; by noon the shops have shut.
🍮 Nagori Halwa
Old Delhi breakfast: tiny puffed nagori puris with a bowl of semolina halwa and a spoon of potato curry. It is sweet and savoury on one plate, eaten before nine.
🟡 Ram ladoo
Fried moong-dal dumplings buried under shredded white radish and green chutney, served in a leaf bowl. Neither a ladoo nor sweet: Delhi's street food is careless with names.
🥣 Papdi Chaat
Flat crisp wafers under yogurt, boiled potato, chickpeas and two chutneys: the mildest member of the chaat family and the safest one to start with.
🥔 Aloo Tikki
A potato patty pressed onto a flat griddle and fried until the crust goes dark, then broken open and buried under yogurt and chutneys.
🥟 Momos
Delhi's favourite street snack: steamed, with fiery red chutney. The best are in the Tibetan colony of Majnu-ka-Tilla, but a momo cart stands on almost every corner.
Dal Makhani
Black lentils and kidney beans simmered overnight with butter and cream until they collapse into something closer to velvet than soup. Punjab's most exported dish.
🍨 Kulfi falooda
Dense, un-churned milk ice, closer to frozen rabri than to ice cream, shaved over rose-scented vermicelli and basil seeds.
🟥 Karachi halwa
Cornflour, sugar and ghee cooked to a translucent, rubbery block studded with cashew, cut into bright squares. Brought to Delhi by families who left Karachi in 1947, and sold under that name ever since.
🍥 Jalebi
Spirals of batter fried and then soaked in saffron syrup. Eaten hot, when the outside still cracks and the inside is molten sugar.
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