India GOWhat to eat in Vrindavan
🧈 Makhan mishri
Butter and sugar crystals, what the child Krishna stole in these very lanes. Handed out in pinches at the temples, not sold.
🟡 Peda
Every second shop on the parikrama route sells it, and the good ones make it twice a day.
🥟 Bedai
Seven in the morning, with the thin dubki-wale aloo; by noon the shops have shut.
Kachori Sabzi
Varanasi eats this for breakfast: a fried kachori with a thin, fiery potato curry, served on a leaf plate at six in the morning.
🥛 Khurchan
The skin scraped off simmering milk, layer after layer, piled up and dusted with sugar: "scrapings", and named exactly that. A Braj sweet shop makes it as a by-product of everything else it does with milk.
🥛 Rabri
Milk reduced for hours over low heat until it thickens and the skin is folded back in, layer after layer. Sweet, but mostly it tastes of patience.
🥤 Kulhad lassi
Thick sweet curd whipped with sugar and topped with a slab of clotted cream, served in the same throwaway clay cup as the milk.
🥛 Thandai
Milk ground with almonds, melon seeds, fennel, pepper and rose, served cold. In Braj it is the drink of Holi, and the shops that make it properly grind the paste fresh every morning.
🥞 Malpua
A thick pancake fried in ghee and dropped into syrup, crisp at the rim and soaked at the centre. Fair food, festival food.
Chappan bhog
Fifty-six dishes laid out at once (sweets, savouries, rice, breads, drinks), offered to Krishna and then shared out. The number comes from the seven days Krishna held up Govardhan hill without eating, times his eight daily meals.
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