Indian food

Kachori Sabzi

Varanasi eats this for breakfast: a fried kachori with a thin, fiery potato curry, served on a leaf plate at six in the morning.

How it's eaten

Ask for it on the lane, not in a restaurant; the queue tells you which stall is the right one.

Where to try it

Agra

Pushkar

Rishikesh

Varanasi

Banaras eats it at six in the morning, standing, before the ghats fill.

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