What to eat in Mathura
🟡 Peda
The Mathura peda is a named thing: darker, grainier and drier than the Vrindavan version, and the old shops will tell you the difference unprompted.
🥟 Bedai
A thick puri stuffed with spiced urad dal, fried dark and served with a watery, peppery potato sabzi. Mathura and Agra eat it at seven in the morning; by noon the shops have shut.
Kachori Sabzi
Varanasi eats this for breakfast: a fried kachori with a thin, fiery potato curry, served on a leaf plate at six in the morning.
🥤 Kulhad lassi
Thick sweet curd whipped with sugar and topped with a slab of clotted cream, served in the same throwaway clay cup as the milk.
🧁 Kalakand
Milk curdled and then cooked down until it sets grainy rather than smooth; the texture is the whole identity. Cut into squares and left plain, or studded with pistachio.
🥛 Khurchan
The skin scraped off simmering milk, layer after layer, piled up and dusted with sugar: "scrapings", and named exactly that. A Braj sweet shop makes it as a by-product of everything else it does with milk.
🍥 Jalebi
Spirals of batter fried and then soaked in saffron syrup. Eaten hot, when the outside still cracks and the inside is molten sugar.
🥛 Rabri
Milk reduced for hours over low heat until it thickens and the skin is folded back in, layer after layer. Sweet, but mostly it tastes of patience.
🥞 Malpua
A thick pancake fried in ghee and dropped into syrup, crisp at the rim and soaked at the centre. Fair food, festival food.
🧈 Makhan mishri
Fresh white butter with crystals of unrefined sugar, the simplest food in Braj and the most loaded: it is what the child Krishna is said to have stolen from the milkmaids of these villages.
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