India GOWhat to eat in Haridwar
Kulhad milk
Poured at dawn on Ram Ghat beside Har Ki Pauri and usually gone by evening. For many pilgrims the cup is part of the ritual, not a snack after it.
Aloo Puri
The pilgrim's breakfast: cheap, hot and heavy enough to carry you through hours of queueing and kilometres of ghats.
Khasta kachori
Two lanes off Bara Bazaar have shops that sell nothing else, and have sold nothing else for decades.
Kulhad lassi
Thick sweet curd whipped with sugar and topped with a slab of clotted cream, served in the same throwaway clay cup as the milk.
Rabri
Milk reduced over hours is the town's whole sweet tradition; every milk shop here starts from the same pot.
Kulfi falooda
Dense, un-churned milk ice, closer to frozen rabri than to ice cream, shaved over rose-scented vermicelli and basil seeds.
Jalebi
Spirals of batter fried and then soaked in saffron syrup. Eaten hot, when the outside still cracks and the inside is molten sugar.
Dahi bhalla
Lentil dumplings soaked until they collapse, buried under whipped curd and both chutneys (sweet tamarind and green coriander), then dusted with roasted cumin.
Kanji vada
Winter only, and worth going out of your way for: few places outside the Doab still ferment the brine properly.
Gujarati thali
An unlimited vegetarian spread where almost every dish is faintly sweet: kadhi, two sabzis, dal, hot puris brought one at a time, and refills until you cover the plate with your hand.
Peda
Dense milk fudge, often stamped with a pattern and handed out as prasadam. Mathura's is the benchmark.
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