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What to eat in Goa
🎂 Bebinca
Sixteen layers, each baked separately. A cook makes it once and understands why it costs what it costs.
🍞 Poi
Leavened with toddy, not yeast, and still delivered door to door by the poder on a bicycle, twice a day.
🫘 Alsande tonak
The everyday Goan plate, the one behind the shacks and the seafood.
🥘 Khatkhate
Temple-feast stew with tirphal, the Goan pepper that tastes of citrus.
Sol Kadhi
Pink and cooling: coconut milk soured with kokum fruit, drunk at the end of a meal to settle everything that came before it.
🍚 Sannas
Goan steamed rice cakes, spongy and faintly sweet, traditionally leavened with toddy. Bigger and softer than an idli, and made for soaking up coconut gravy.
Patoleo
August only, steamed in a turmeric leaf.
🍪 Bolinhas
Coconut-semolina biscuits with a cracked top, Portuguese in ancestry and entirely Goan by now.
🍫 Dodol
A dark, chewy Goan sweet of coconut milk, palm jaggery and rice flour, stirred for hours until it darkens and pulls away from the pan. Christmas food in the Catholic villages, sold year round on the coast.
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