Vagator: cliffs, coves and Goa's late nights

Start the day under trees at Bean Me Up, one of India's oldest vegan cafes, in a Portuguese villa garden in Vagator since 1996: tempeh tacos, acai bowls and a dark chocolate mousse with a following of its own.

Then go down to Vagator Beach. A headland splits it into separate coves, each backed by black rock, so it never feels like one long strip. Swim only in the dry season, between the red-and-yellow flags where lifeguards post them, and keep off wet rocks.

In the late afternoon, climb to Chapora Fort: about 15 minutes up a steep path of loose gravel from the Vagator side, so wear shoes with grip and carry water. From the walls the Chapora river meets the sea to the north with Morjim across the water, and Vagator's coves curve under the cliffs to the south. Walk down before full dark; the path is harder without light.

The evening has several versions. Thalassa, a Greek taverna on the clifftop, is the sunset-dinner option (touristy and pricey). Hilltop Market holds a weekly market of clothes, jewellery and handmade goods with live music and a food court; sources disagree on the day, so confirm it locally. And then there are the clubs.

Anjuna next door shares the coast and the party reputation, but it is the bigger name, with a long beach and the Wednesday flea market. Vagator is smaller and steeper: cliffs, coves and the fort. Many people stay in one and ride to the other. Across the river, Morjim is mellow, with turtle nesting and a Russian-speaking community. For the loudest bars and the biggest crowds, Baga and Calangute are further south. On the hotel side, W Goa sits right on Vagator beach, for people who want style and nightlife in one place rather than quiet; other options are on where to stay in Goa.

Plan the ride back before the evening starts: Uber and Ola do not work in Goa, app taxis may not be close late at night, buses stop around 21:00, and the yellow-plate "pilot" bike taxis have no meter, so agree the fare first. Outdoor loudspeakers must stop at 10 pm under India's noise rules. Keep your glass in sight, and remember that drugs carry prison terms in India. More in Goa nightlife and safety in Goa.

The beach season and the party season are the same: November to February is the peak, March and April are still good. From June to September the sea is closed under the red-flag advisory and the shacks shut. Within the day, Vagator is a late-afternoon place: come after the heat breaks for the fort and the sunset. Christmas to New Year is the busiest and most expensive week. Mopa is the airport for the north.