India GOWhat to eat in Agra
Petha
Ash gourd candied in syrup. Agra has made it since the Taj was built, and the shops still argue over who is the original.
Bedai
Seven in the morning, with a peppery potato sabzi; by noon it is over.
Dalmoth
Agra's savoury counterpart to petha: a dry, spiced mix of fried lentils, nuts and curry leaves. Keeps for weeks, which is why it travels.
Kachori Sabzi
Varanasi eats this for breakfast: a fried kachori with a thin, fiery potato curry, served on a leaf plate at six in the morning.
Paneer Tikka
Cubes of paneer marinated in spiced yogurt and charred in the tandoor with onion and capsicum. The vegetarian answer to the tandoori grill, and the one starter available almost everywhere.
Chole Bhature
Punjab's heavy breakfast: spiced chickpeas with a bhatura, a deep-fried bread that arrives inflated like a balloon and deflates while you watch.
Jalebi
Spirals of batter fried and then soaked in saffron syrup. Eaten hot, when the outside still cracks and the inside is molten sugar.
Dal Makhani
Black lentils and kidney beans simmered overnight with butter and cream until they collapse into something closer to velvet than soup. Punjab's most exported dish.
Rabri
Milk reduced for hours over low heat until it thickens and the skin is folded back in, layer after layer. Sweet, but mostly it tastes of patience.
Chaat
Not a dish but a category: something fried and crisp, something cold and sour, yogurt, tamarind, chilli and raw onion, assembled in front of you in twenty seconds. Every city has its own version and considers the others wrong.
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