India GOWhat to eat in Pushkar
Malpua
Pushkar's malpua is thick and bready rather than lacy, soaked in syrup and eaten with rabri: a fair-ground sweet in a town built around a fair.
Gulkand lassi
The roses grow around the lake and the jam is sold by the kilo two streets away.
Dal Baati Churma
Rajasthan on one plate: hard wheat balls baked in embers, split and drowned in ghee, served with lentils and a sweet crumble of the same dough. Desert food: it was built to keep.
Rajasthani Thali
The desert plate: dal baati churma at the centre, with gatte ki sabzi, ker sangri, bajra roti and a good deal of ghee around it. Built for a climate with no fresh vegetables, which is why so much of it keeps.
Kachori Sabzi
Varanasi eats this for breakfast: a fried kachori with a thin, fiery potato curry, served on a leaf plate at six in the morning.
Poha
Flattened rice steamed with turmeric, onion and mustard seed. Madhya Pradesh eats it every morning and argues about the toppings.
Rabri
Milk reduced for hours over low heat until it thickens and the skin is folded back in, layer after layer. Sweet, but mostly it tastes of patience.
Masala Chai
Black tea boiled with milk, ginger, cardamom and whatever else the stall believes in. Not tea with spices added, but tea cooked with them.
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