What to eat in Mayapur
Khichuri
Offered first and eaten by everyone after. The temple kitchen cooks it by the cauldron, and on rainy days it is all anyone wants.
Luchi & alur dom
White, pale and onion-free: the Vaishnava kitchen's festival breakfast.
Sweet rice
Rice simmered in milk and sugar until it thickens, scented with cardamom and bay: the plainest offering in a Vaishnava kitchen and the one served in the largest quantity.
Sattvic thali
Rice, sambar, rasam, a poriyal and curd, all cooked without onion, garlic or chilli heat, on the principle that food should leave the mind quiet. Ashram kitchens serve it at fixed hours to everyone at once.
Mishti Doi
Yogurt set with caramelised jaggery in a clay pot, which draws out the water and leaves it dense. Bengal's answer to dessert.
Nolen Gur Sandesh
Sandesh made with nolen gur, the first date-palm sap of winter, boiled down to a smoky caramel. It exists for about three months a year, and Bengalis plan around it.
Malpua
A thick pancake fried in ghee and dropped into syrup, crisp at the rim and soaked at the centre. Fair food, festival food.
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