India GOWhat to eat in Dehradun
Bal mithai
Comes down from Almora and fills every sweet shop on Rajpur Road: the thing people carry back from Uttarakhand.
Singori
Wrapped in a malu leaf and good for one day only, so buy it here, eat it here.
Aloo ke gutke
Boiled potatoes tossed in mustard oil with jakhiya, a wild Himalayan seed that pops like mustard but tastes of nothing else. The dish that tells you the kitchen is Garhwali and not Punjabi.
Arsa
Rice flour and jaggery fried into a dark, sticky disc: the sweet a Garhwali bride's family sends with her, made in quantity and kept for weeks.
Momos
Tibetan dumplings, steamed or pan-fried, which became the default street snack of the whole Himalayan belt. In the hill towns they are as ordinary as samosas are on the plains.
Laphing
The Tibetan settlements around Dehradun made this a student staple long before it reached Delhi.
Veg Thukpa
A Tibetan noodle soup with vegetables in a clear, ginger-heavy broth. Mountain food: it exists to warm you from the inside on a day that will not climb above ten degrees.
Tingmo
A steamed Tibetan bread, spiralled and pulled apart by hand. It has almost no taste of its own, and is not supposed to: it is there to be dipped in whatever else is on the table.
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