India GOWhat to eat in Jaipur
Dal Baati Churma
Baked in cow-dung embers traditionally, and the churma is crushed by hand at the table; this is a three-part dish, not a plate of bread.
Pyaaz Kachori
Jaipur's is the onion one; Jodhpur will argue and it is worth letting them.
Mawa Kachori
A sweet kachori: the same fried shell, filled with mawa and nuts instead of lentils, then dipped in syrup.
Ghewar
A monsoon sweet: made for Teej and Raksha Bandhan, and the honeycomb only sets right in humid air.
Ker Sangri
Desert berries and dried khejri beans cooked with yogurt and chilli: a dish invented by drought. Neither grows anywhere else in India, and neither needs water to keep, which is exactly why Rajasthan learned to cook them.
Gatte ki Sabzi
Gram-flour dumplings simmered in spiced yogurt gravy. Invented where vegetables were scarce, and it shows: nothing in it grows above ground.
Rajasthani Thali
The desert plate: dal baati churma at the centre, with gatte ki sabzi, ker sangri, bajra roti and a good deal of ghee around it. Built for a climate with no fresh vegetables, which is why so much of it keeps.
Raj Kachori
The king-sized one: a hollow fried shell the size of a fist, cracked open and loaded with potato, sprouts, yogurt, chutneys and sev. One is a meal.
Malai Ghewar
A disc of lacework batter, fried so it sets full of holes, then soaked in syrup and covered with thickened milk. Monsoon and festival food.
Masala Chai
Black tea boiled with milk, ginger, cardamom and whatever else the stall believes in. Not tea with spices added, but tea cooked with them.
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