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Maha Shivaratri in Varanasi: a night at Kashi Vishwanath
The night the world stays awake for Shiva
In Varanasi, Shiva's own city, Maha Shivaratri is the biggest day of the year at Kashi Vishwanath: 6 March 2027. The temple is reported to stay open through the night, and around a million people pass the linga, but only from a distance. On the streets the Shiv Baraat, Shiva's wedding procession, crosses the old city. The day rewards a room within walking distance of the ghats and a plan made before you arrive.
Kashi Vishwanath stays open through the night for around a million devotees, the Shiv Baraat carries Shiva's wedding party across the old city, and four aartis mark the watches of the night.
Where to watch
Kashi Vishwanath Dham: the heart of the day. Only jhanki darshan (a view of the lingam from a distance) is allowed; touch darshan and paid or VIP darshan are suspended for the festival. In 2026 barricaded queues led to the Dhundhiraj, Ghat and Saraswati gates. Phones, bags and pens are not allowed inside.
Mahamrityunjay Temple, Daranagar: where the Shiv Baraat sets out, on the road from Daranagar to Kal Bhairav.
Chittaranjan Park, Dashashwamedh: where the Shiv Baraat ends, beside the main ghat.
The ghats: the dawn dip before darshan, from Dashashwamedh along the river.
Free viewing
- The Shiv Baraat route through Maidagin, Bulanala, Chowk and Godowlia, from the roadside
- The ghats around Dashashwamedh at dawn, when pilgrims bathe before joining the queue
Programme
Dawn dip at the ghats
Many pilgrims bathe in the Ganga before joining the temple queue; the ghats fill from the night before.
Dashashwamedh and the neighbouring ghats
Mangala Aarti, then the doors open
The day starts with the Mangala Aarti, after which the temple opens for darshan without a break through the day and the night.
Kashi Vishwanath Dham
Darshan at Kashi Vishwanath
The long queue is the heart of the day: around a million people pass the lingam (11.69 lakh in 2025). Only jhanki darshan, a view from a distance, is allowed, and there is no paid shortcut on this day.
Kashi Vishwanath Dham, through the Dhundhiraj, Ghat and Saraswati gates
Shiv Baraat
Shiva's wedding procession: drums, conches and people dressed as Shiva's ganas, ghosts and ascetics move through Maidagin, Bulanala, Chowk and Godowlia. The Shiv Baraat Samiti has run it for more than forty years.
From the Mahamrityunjay Temple, Daranagar, to Chittaranjan Park by Dashashwamedh Ghat
Four prahar aartis
Instead of the usual Shayan Aarti, the night is divided into four watches (prahars), each with its own aarti, while jhanki darshan continues.
Kashi Vishwanath Dham
How darshan works on the day
On Shivaratri Kashi Vishwanath runs festival rules, announced anew each year. According to press reports from recent years, only jhanki darshan, a view of the linga from a distance, was allowed; touching the linga and paid or VIP darshan were suspended. In one recent year online booking of darshan and puja was closed for the festival day and the day after, and tickets already issued for those dates were treated as cancelled. Everyone joins the same barricaded queues to the gates, which by 9 am reportedly ran for more than four kilometres.
The practical answer is to go early or late. Pilgrims bathe and join the queue from the night before, and the doors open after the Mangala Aarti before dawn. Press reports describe the doors staying open through the night, with the usual evening aartis, Shayan Aarti among them, replaced by aartis for the four watches of the night. Phones, bags and pens are not allowed inside and there is security screening at the gates, so the simplest plan is to bring nothing you would have to deposit.
The Shiv Baraat
Shivaratri is also remembered as the night of Shiva's wedding to Parvati, and Varanasi celebrates it with a wedding procession, the Shiv Baraat, Shiva's wedding party crossing the old city. It sets out from the Mahamrityunjay temple at Daranagar and ends at Chittaranjan Park beside Dashashwamedh Ghat, passing Maidagin, Bulanala, Chowk and Godowlia. It is free to watch from the roadside. The date can move: in a recent Kumbh year, with akhara processions to the temple, the baraat was reportedly held on the day after Shivaratri, so check the announcement when you arrive.
A plan for the night
One way to fit the temple, the river and the procession into a day and a night.
- The day before
Arrive, walk the route from your room to the temple gates and the ghats in daylight, and note the barricades: on the day vehicles stop well short of the old city. Tradition asks pilgrims to seek the leave of Kaal Bhairav, the city's guardian, before visiting Vishwanath; phones go into deposit there too.
- Before dawn
The dip at Dashashwamedh or a neighbouring ghat, then the queue, which builds from the night before. More on bathing: holy dip in Varanasi.
- Afternoon and evening
Rest, then find a place on the Shiv Baraat route through Chowk or Godowlia.
- The night
Back to the ghats, where lamps burn through the night, or a second darshan late at night while the four watches are kept.
Practical notes
- Cold stone — In Varanasi February averages about 27 °C by day and 12 °C at night, March about 33 and 17. Temple floors are bare stone: warm socks and a shawl help. Dress code: temple dress code in Varanasi.
- Crowd sense — The UK Foreign Office notes that stampedes have occurred at large religious gatherings and advises following local authorities. Agree a meeting point outside the barricades; phones stay outside the temple, so you cannot call each other from the queue.
- Rooms — Stay between Assi and Dashashwamedh so that the pre-dawn start and the late night are on foot. See where to stay in Varanasi.
FAQ
When is Maha Shivaratri in Varanasi?
On 6 March 2027. Kashi Vishwanath opens after the Mangala Aarti before dawn and, according to press reports, stays open through the night.
What happens in Varanasi during Mahashivratri?
A night-long darshan at Kashi Vishwanath with four aartis for the four watches, dawn bathing on the ghats, and the Shiv Baraat, Shiva's wedding procession, through the old city.
Can I book VIP or Sugam darshan on Shivaratri?
Not in recent years. According to press reports, paid and VIP darshan were suspended for the festival and only distant jhanki darshan was allowed; in one year online booking was closed for the day and the day after. Check the temple's announcement for your year.
Where does the Shiv Baraat go?
From the Mahamrityunjay temple at Daranagar through Maidagin, Chowk and Godowlia to Chittaranjan Park by Dashashwamedh Ghat. Watch it free from the roadside.
Sources (5)
- Amar Ujala: online booking suspended for Mahashivratri
- News Arena India: Varanasi decks up for Mahashivratri
- Aaj Tak: Kashi Vishwanath doors stay open on Mahashivratri, four-prahar aarti, VIP darshan stopped (in Hindi)
- FCDO: India, safety and security
- IANS: VIP darshan at Kashi Vishwanath stopped for Maha Shivratri
Facts checked: 22 October 2026. Prices and hours are approximate; check locally.