Kaal Bhairav Temple

In the order of Kashi, Bhairava (the fierce form of Shiva) is the Kotwal, the city's divine police chief, and tradition holds that a pilgrimage to Kashi Vishwanath is not complete without first asking his leave. Which is why the lane outside is busy long before visitors are awake. The present temple dates to the 17th or 18th century, with legend crediting Bajirao Peshwa in 1715, and devotees are tied a black thread as protection. Phones and cameras go into deposit at the entrance. Open from early morning until about 13:30 and again in the late afternoon; Tuesdays and Sundays bring long queues.

The city's guardian deity: locals call on him before and after Vishwanath