Holi in Varanasi: six days of colour in Kashi

Three moments of Holi in Kashi

1. Five days before: Rangbhari Ekadashi

   The palanquin of Baba Vishwanath and Gaura is carried from the former Mahant’s house to Kashi Vishwanath through clouds of abir and gulal, and this opens six days of colour. The lanes are the place to watch: one recent year only the 64 people with the palanquin were let into the temple, and phones were not allowed inside. Keep clear of its path, the lanes are narrow.

2. The next day: Masan Holi

   At Manikarnika, the main cremation ghat, Holi is played with ash from the cremation ground instead of colour. It is a working cremation ground, so watch respectfully and do not photograph cremations. The organising temple committee has asked women to watch from boats or the corridor rather than join in.

3. Holi itself: the ghats

   On the colour morning the ghats from Assi to Dashashwamedh fill with colour, and it winds down by early afternoon. Assi is the calmer end; the lanes around Dashashwamedh and the temple are the most crowded. The bonfires of Holika Dahan burn the night before.

Safety and etiquette

• Crowds — The FCDO notes that stampedes have occurred at some events with large crowds and advises following the instructions of the local authorities. Go with company, agree a meeting point, and do not stand in the palanquin’s path.
• For women travellers — The FCDO notes that female travellers often experience verbal and physical harassment by individuals or groups of men. On the colour morning stay with your group; at Masan Holi follow the committee’s request and watch from a boat or the corridor.
• Bhang and drinks — Bhang, made from cannabis leaves, often appears at Holi. India’s narcotics law, the NDPS Act, leaves the leaves out of its definition of cannabis and states regulate bhang, while ganja and charas are banned; the FCDO notes that possessing even small amounts of illegal drugs can bring a minimum sentence of 6 months. Bhang’s strength is unpredictable, and the FCDO warns of spiked drinks and food: don’t accept food or drinks from strangers.
• Colours and kit — Old clothes, coconut oil on skin and hair, herbal gulal rather than cheap chemical colour, mouth closed in the thick of it, phone in a zip-lock bag. A clear “no, thank you” still counts. Emergency number: 112.

Getting there, where to stay, when to book

1. Book about a month ahead

   The ghat-side guesthouses go first. Book trains as soon as reservations open 60 days ahead: from Delhi there is a Vande Bharat and there are overnight expresses. Babatpur airport is about 25 km out. More in how to get to Varanasi.

2. Stay in the old city

   Between Assi and Dashashwamedh: Bengali Tola, Godowlia and the lanes above the river. The old city is walk-only, with cars stopped 1–1.5 km from the ghats, and on the colour morning most autos and cabs stay off the road until the afternoon.

3. Arrive by Rangbhari Ekadashi

   For all three moments arrive by Rangbhari Ekadashi, five days before Holi, and plan on up to six nights. If only the colour day matters, arriving on the day of Holika Dahan is enough.