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Tulsi to Kedar
The Quiet Ghats
Laundry slaps the stone, buffaloes take their bath, kids fly kites: Varanasi just living its life, hardly a tourist in sight. Striped Kedar Ghat is the south's most photogenic.
The quiet arc between Assi and the centre: Tulsi Ghat, Chet Singh with its small fort, Kedar with the striped temple. Laundry dries, cricket bounces down the steps, chai is poured with no touts at all: everyday Varanasi, not the showpiece. The city's best walking meditation: forty minutes along the water, no minute like another.
Who it suits
the quiet ghat arc crowd-free walking photographers
Staying here
A few quiet guesthouses above the ghats.
In the evening
The arc goes dark after sunset, so walk it in daylight.
Getting there
The riverfront walk from Assi or Godowlia
What to see
Where to eat
Shopping
Where to stay
Other areas of Varanasi
In the app: the city's areas on the map, the places inside and a route.
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