India GOWhat to eat in Mussoorie
Bun tikki
Mall Road food, eaten walking in the cold, and the reason the queue forms before the shop opens.
Landour cheese and peanut butter
One shop at Sisters' Bazaar has churned it since the 1920s. It is the hill station's oldest recipe, and still made in the back room.
Momos
Tibetan dumplings, steamed or pan-fried, which became the default street snack of the whole Himalayan belt. In the hill towns they are as ordinary as samosas are on the plains.
Phallay
Mussoorie's Tibetan quarter has made it for sixty years; it is not the same thing as a fried momo.
Veg Thukpa
A Tibetan noodle soup with vegetables in a clear, ginger-heavy broth. Mountain food: it exists to warm you from the inside on a day that will not climb above ten degrees.
Hill-station chocolate
Hand-poured slabs sold from shops that have been in the same family for decades: nut, cardamom, coffee, chilli. Neither Munnar nor Ooty grows cacao; both learned the craft from planters and never stopped.
Masala Chai
Black tea boiled with milk, ginger, cardamom and whatever else the stall believes in. Not tea with spices added, but tea cooked with them.
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