India GOIndian food
Malaiyo
Winter only. Milk froth left out overnight to catch the dew, whipped into a foam so light it collapses in the mouth. Sold before sunrise and gone by nine.
How it's eaten
Ask in the old city between late November and February. Outside that window it does not exist.
Where to try it
Varanasi
Only from the first cold morning to the last: the milk sits overnight under the dew and is whipped at dawn, and the foam collapses by ten. Miss the season and there is nothing to substitute.