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Karthigai Deepam at Tiruvannamalai: the fire on Arunachala
A flame on the summit of Arunachala and barefoot crowds circling the hill all night
Karthigai Deepam is the ten-day festival of the Arunachaleswarar temple in Tiruvannamalai, Tamil Nadu, and on its last evening the authorities expect crowds counted in millions. At about 6 pm a beacon of ghee is lit on the summit of Arunachala, the hill worshipped as Shiva himself, and hundreds of thousands of people then walk the 14 km road around the hill through the night. Dates: 15–24 November 2026 (expected), with the Maha Deepam on the final day; the temple announces the full programme about two months ahead.
The temple announces the full programme at the festival-pole ceremony about two months ahead; the district collector's review meetings follow.
The legend
In the Shiva Purana, Brahma and Vishnu argue over which of them is greater, and a pillar of fire rises between them. It has no top and no base: it is Shiva.
The Arunachala Purana says its heat was more than living beings could bear, so at the gods' request Shiva cooled into the hill of Arunachala.
Once Parvati covers Shiva's eyes, and the whole world sinks into darkness. To make amends, she comes to Arunachala to pray.
On the full moon of Karthigai, Shiva forgives her and gives her half of his body. So he becomes Ardhanarishvara, male and female in one form.
So at dusk on Deepam day, as the fire flares on the summit, the image of Ardhanarishvara is carried out of the temple: for a couple of minutes a year.
Meaning
Temple of fire
Arunachaleswarar is one of the five temples of the elements: Shiva is worshipped here as fire, and the sanctum's linga is the Agni Lingam.
Ramana Maharshi
To Ramana Maharshi, Arunachala was Shiva himself. At his ashram at the foot of the hill a lamp is lit at the same moment as the summit fire.
All Tamil Nadu
Sangam poetry already sang of the Karthigai lights. That evening, across the state, rows of clay lamps glow on doorsteps, verandas and courtyards.
Murugan
In the Kanda Puranam, six babies born of Shiva's sparks are raised by the six Krittikas, the stars of the Pleiades. So Karthigai is Murugan's festival too.
Customs
Bharani Deepam
At 4 am a flame is lit in the sanctum, and from it five lamps, one for each element. This is the fire that is carried up the hill.
Maha Deepam
At six sharp a huge cauldron flares on the summit, filled with tonnes of ghee and a cloth wick. The fire can be seen from tens of kilometres away.
Girivalam
All night hundreds of thousands walk barefoot round the hill on a 14 km road, keeping it on their right and repeating Shiva's name.
Five chariots
On the seventh day the temple's five deities ride out on five chariots. Only women pull the goddess Parasakthi's chariot, and children pull Chandikeshvara's.
What people eat
Pori urundai
puffed rice balls bound with jaggery and cardamom
Neyyappam
sweet rice-flour and jaggery fritters fried in ghee
Words of the festival
கார்த்திகை
Karthigai
a Tamil month and the star Krittika (the Pleiades): the festival falls on its full moon
அண்ணாமலை
Annamalai
the Tamil name of the hill: "the mountain that cannot be reached"
அகல் விளக்கு
agal vilakku
a clay oil lamp; agal means "a wide-mouthed bowl"
சொக்கப்பனை
sokkappanai
a bonfire of palm leaves at the temple, recalling the pillar of fire
மாவலி
maavali
a home-made firework of charred palmyra flowers, spun round to throw sparks
How to greet
அண்ணாமலையாருக்கு அரோகரா!
Annamalaiyarukku Arohara!
A cry in praise of Annamalaiyar, Shiva as the hill: the whole crowd takes it up as the fire flares on the summit.
True or myth
❌ Myth. It burns for eleven days, and only then is the cauldron brought down to the temple.
❌ Myth. It is the hereditary right of the Parvatha Rajakulam, a fishing community: its members set the cauldron on the summit and light it.
✅ True. On Arudra Darshan it marks Nataraja's brow, then goes to pilgrims; those who gave ghee for the fire receive it free.
Where to celebrate
Tiruvannamalai
Worth the trip
On the last of ten festival days a lamp is lit before dawn in the Arunachaleswarar temple, and at dusk a beacon of ghee flares on the summit of Arunachala while pilgrims walk round the hill all night.
How the ten days build to the last evening
The festival opens with the flag hoisting at the Arunachaleswarar temple and runs for ten days as the temple's Brahmotsavam, its great annual festival, recorded here since the Chola period. On the seventh day the five deities of the temple ride out on five wooden chariots; by custom only women pull the chariot of the goddess Parasakthi, and children pull Chandikeshvara's.
The last day starts in the dark. At 4 am a flame is lit in the sanctum, and from it five lamps, one for each element: this is the Bharani Deepam, and it is this fire that is carried up the hill. At dusk the image of Ardhanarishvara, Shiva as half male and half female, is carried out of the temple for a couple of minutes, the only time in the year it appears.
At about 6 pm the cauldron on the summit flares. It holds tonnes of ghee and a cloth wick, and lighting it is the hereditary right of the Parvatha Rajakulam, a fishing community, not of the temple priests. The whole town answers with one cry, "Annamalaiyarukku Arohara", in praise of Shiva as the hill. At the same moment lamps are lit at Ramana Maharshi's ashram at the foot of Arunachala, and across Tamil Nadu clay lamps (agal vilakku) glow on doorsteps and verandas. The summit fire burns for about eleven days before the cauldron is brought down.
Walking the girivalam
The girivalam is the walk around Arunachala: 14 km on a road that circles the hill, done barefoot and clockwise, with the hill always on your right, past the eight Ashta Lingam shrines. Pilgrims walk it on every full moon, but on Deepam night the road carries hundreds of thousands of people from the lighting until dawn, many repeating Shiva's name. In tradition the walk atones for wrongs and brings the walker closer to liberation from rebirth.
Where to watch the Maha Deepam
The beacon is visible from anywhere in town and far across the plain, so a good view does not depend on getting inside.
Inside the Arunachaleswarar temple
Entry to the temple is free, but for the two lamp-lightings, Bharani Deepam at dawn and the Maha Deepam at dusk, only a limited number of people with paid passes are let in. The passes go on sale online only a few days before. The sanctum is open to Hindus only.
The town and the girivalam road
Free and open all night. The fire is seen from the streets, the roofs and the whole circuit around the hill.
Not from the summit
After deadly landslides on Arunachala, the district administration has not allowed pilgrims to climb the hill for the festival, and the beacon is watched from below. Check the collector's announcement before you go.
Crowds, etiquette and safety
Deepam day brings millions to Tiruvannamalai: the authorities expected about 40 lakh (4 million) people in a recent year.
- The town closes to traffic — On Deepam day vehicles stop at temporary bus stands and car parks on the edge of town. Plan to walk in and walk out.
- Follow the police — The UK Foreign Office (FCDO) notes that stampedes have occurred at large religious gatherings in India; it advises avoiding large gatherings, including at religious sites, and following the advice of local authorities. Keep to the barriers and the one-way routes the police set up.
- Belongings — FCDO also advises taking care of your possessions in crowds. Keep the phone and money in a front pocket and agree a meeting point away from the temple.
- Barefoot ground — Shoes come off at the temple gate, and the girivalam is walked barefoot by custom, clockwise, with the hill on your right.
Getting there, booking and where to stay
Tiruvannamalai is linked by road and rail with Chennai and Bengaluru, roughly 150 to 210 km away by road depending on the route; the nearest airport is Chennai, about 170 km away. The railway station is on the Katpadi–Villupuram line.
- Rooms: about three months ahead
Hotels in town and the ashram guesthouses go months ahead, and prices rise steeply for festival week. Many pilgrims simply sleep on the girivalam road. If town is full, base yourself in Villupuram or Gingee and come in early.
- Trains and buses
Train tickets go on sale 60 days ahead; take them the day the window opens. Tamil Nadu runs special buses from across the state, about 4,700 of them in a recent year.
- Arrive two days before
On Deepam day the town is sealed to traffic. Two nights is the minimum and three is better, so that you do not travel straight after a night on the girivalam road.
FAQ
When is Karthigai Deepam?
Next: 15–24 November 2026 (expected). The ten days end on the day nearest the full moon of the Tamil month of Karthigai when the Krittika star is current at dusk, and the Maha Deepam is lit that evening.
What time is the Maha Deepam lit?
At about 6 pm, at dusk on the last day of the festival. The Bharani Deepam is lit inside the temple earlier the same day, at 4 am.
Can I climb Arunachala hill on Deepam day?
In recent years, no: after deadly landslides the district administration has closed the climb during the festival, and the beacon is watched from below. Check the collector's notice for your year.
How long is the girivalam around the hill?
About 14 km, walked barefoot and clockwise. On Deepam night it goes on until dawn, and the road is free and open to everyone.
Can non-Hindus enter the Arunachaleswarar temple?
The temple grounds are open to visitors and entry is free; the sanctum is for Hindus only. For the two lamp-lightings a limited number of paid passes are sold online a few days before.
Is Karthigai Deepam the same as Kartik Purnima?
They are related but not always the same day. Karthigai Deepam follows the Tamil month and the Krittika star, so it can coincide with Kartik Purnima or come several weeks later.
Sources (7)
Facts checked: 21 October 2026. Prices and hours are approximate; check locally.