Ramnagar Fort

The Kashi Naresh, the Maharaja of Banaras, still keeps his seat here, on the east bank opposite Tulsi Ghat. Maharaja Balwant Singh raised the sandstone residence in the 18th century in Mughal style, and time has weathered much of it; the river facade, seen from an approaching boat, is what stays with you. Inside, the Saraswati Bhawan museum is cheerfully eccentric: vintage cars, palanquins, royal costumes, arms, astronomical clocks. Come by bridge or by a short crossing. Through the month-long Ramnagar Ramlila in September and October the whole town turns into a stage.

The Maharaja of Banaras still keeps his seat here, and his museum of cars and palanquins is worth the crossing