Jejuri Khandoba Temple

Khandoba, the warrior form of Shiva in Maharashtra, keeps a fort-like temple on a hill fifty kilometres out, and pilgrims climb the two hundred steps throwing bhandara - turmeric powder - as they go. The hill and half the town end up gold, which is where the name Sonyachi Jejuri, golden Jejuri, comes from. The older Kadepathar shrine sits higher still, past four hundred more steps. Somvati Amavasya, a new moon falling on a Monday two or three times a year, and the Champa Shashthi festival bring crowds in the lakhs. Clothes, skin and cameras all turn yellow - bring covers for equipment.

A whole hill dusted gold in turmeric - the most photogenic ritual near Pune