Darshan in Kolkata

Kalighat

One of the fifty-one Shakti Peethas, the places where pieces of Sati's body are said to have fallen. Here it was the right toe. The city takes its name from this temple. The sanctum is tiny and the press of people is total: you come face to face with the black stone Kali with her golden tongue for a few seconds, and then you are moved along.

Early morning is the only calm hour. Tuesdays, Saturdays and the days of Kali Puja and Durga Puja are the heaviest.