Before you go

Monsoon in India: when it arrives, where it rains less, and how to travel

The southwest monsoon reaches Kerala around 1 June, covers the whole country by about 8 July and pulls back from the northwest from mid-September, leaving most of India by 15 October. The west coast and the Western Ghats take the heaviest rain, while Ladakh, a high cold desert, barely notices it. Monsoon travel works well with the right region and some flexibility: green landscapes, fewer crowds, but closed beaches, landslides on mountain roads and peak dengue season.

What the monsoon actually is

The monsoon is less a storm than a season. For most of India, 70–90% of the year's rain falls between June and September, according to the India Meteorological Department (IMD). It rarely means rain all day: more often a heavy downpour, a break, steam rising off the street, then another wall of water by evening. The first rain smells of wet dust and hot stone, and the whole country seems to exhale.

The rains move up the country from the south-west. Over much of the south the season lasts more than four months; in the north-west it is about half as long. Then the retreat runs the other way, and in October Tamil Nadu gets its own rainy season from the northeast monsoon, which brings about 48% of the state's annual rain between October and December.

Dates below are averages. The IMD puts the usual year-to-year spread at about 5–10 days for arrival (more in the north-west) and 7–9 days for withdrawal. Each year's real progress is published on the IMD website.

Normal arrival and withdrawal dates by city

IMD normal dates (onset 1961–2019, withdrawal 1971–2019). Where no withdrawal date is given, the southwest monsoon hands over directly to the northeast monsoon.

Kochi (Kerala)	Arrives: 1 June. Withdraws: replaced by the northeast monsoon (no date).
Bengaluru, Mysuru	Arrives: 3 June. Withdraws: replaced by the northeast monsoon (no date).
Panaji (Goa)	Arrives: 5 June. Withdraws: 14 October.
Mumbai, Pune	Arrives: 10–11 June. Withdraws: 8–9 October.
Dibrugarh (Assam), Gangtok (Sikkim)	Arrives: 4–8 June. Withdraws: 12–14 October.
Puri (Odisha)	Arrives: 14 June. Withdraws: 14 October.
Patna, Varanasi	Arrives: 16–23 June. Withdraws: 4–8 October.
Dehradun, Shimla	Arrives: 20–22 June. Withdraws: 24–27 September.
Delhi, Agra	Arrives: 27 June. Withdraws: 25–28 September.
Jaipur, Udaipur	Arrives: 25–29 June. Withdraws: 23–25 September.
Jodhpur	Arrives: 2 July. Withdraws: 19 September.
Ahmedabad	Arrives: 26 June. Withdraws: 28 September.
Ladakh	Arrives: 24 June. Withdraws: 22 September.

Where the monsoon is easier to travel

Heavy rain: the west coast (Kerala, coastal Karnataka, Goa, Konkan and Mumbai) and the Western Ghats. IMD research shows rain increasing from the shore toward the hills, and the coast gets the full force of the season from June to September. The hills turn a deep, wet green and waterfalls appear on every slope, but plan for days indoors and rough seas.

Shorter season: Rajasthan and Gujarat. In Jodhpur the monsoon normally arrives on 2 July and leaves on 19 September, a much shorter season than Mumbai's (11 June to 8 October).

Barely touched: Ladakh. The Ladakh administration describes it as a cold desert, and the high-altitude summer season there coincides with the monsoon elsewhere. Rain is rare, but not impossible: on 6 August 2010 a cloudburst caused flash floods in Leh that killed nearly 200 people. Roads into Ladakh from Manali and Srinagar cross ranges that do get monsoon weather, so allow spare days.

Tamil Nadu and Chennai stay relatively dry in June–September; their wet season is October–December.

Sea, mountains and parks: what closes

The sea. The FCDO warns that monsoons bring flash floods and landslides, often with little warning, especially in the mountains. In Goa, the state's lifeguard agency puts out red flags and declares beaches no-swim zones from June to the end of September, and water sports stop; even wading is discouraged. Beaches stay open to walk on.

Mountain roads and treks. Landslides block roads in the Himalaya and the Western Ghats, and river crossings on treks swell fast. Build buffer days into any mountain route and check local updates the evening before.

National parks. Many tiger reserves close their core zones for the monsoon, typically from around late June or 1 July until October or later; some buffer zones stay open. Dates differ by park, so check the park's official booking portal.

Cyclones. The FCDO lists cyclone risk on the east coast from September to December, in the Bay of Bengal in April to June and September to December, and in the south from June to November.

✅ Health in the rainy season

The monsoon is also the busiest season for several infections. A few habits cover most of it.

Dengue season — Transmission rises in the rainy season; NCVBDC notes a yearly surge in cases from July to November, peaking after the monsoon. Repellent from the morning, not just at dusk. More in [dengue and malaria](/en/guide/mosquito-diseases/).
Japanese encephalitis — Peaks during and just after the monsoon, especially in the north. Ask a travel clinic about the vaccine for long rural stays.
Don't wade in floodwater — NaTHNaC links flooding to leptospirosis, spread through water and soil contaminated by animal urine. Avoid wading and swimming in floodwater, cover cuts, and shower after contact.
Water and food — Floods contaminate water supplies. Drink sealed or boiled water and eat food cooked hot. See [food safety](/en/guide/food-safety/).

✅ What to pack

A compact umbrella and a light rain jacket — Heavy ponchos are hot in humid heat; a breathable shell works better.
Sandals that grip — Streets flood ankle-deep in minutes, and wet marble at temples is slippery. Closed shoes take days to dry.
Dry bags and zip bags — For phone, passport and cash. A sudden downpour soaks a backpack in seconds.
Quick-dry clothes — Cotton stays damp for days in monsoon humidity.
Repellent — DEET 50% or icaridin 20%, for daytime as well as evening.

Where to check the weather

The IMD website (mausam.imd.gov.in) publishes the monsoon's progress and district warnings. The national disaster alert portal SACHET (sachet.ndma.gov.in, with an app) brings together official warnings from the IMD, the Central Water Commission and other agencies, by location.

❓ Questions people ask

Is it worth travelling to India during the monsoon?

Yes, if you pick the region and keep the plan flexible. Expect green landscapes and fewer crowds, along with seas closed for swimming, delays and higher dengue risk.

When does the monsoon start in Goa?

The IMD normal date is 5 June, and withdrawal is around 14 October. Swimming is banned on lifeguard-patrolled beaches from June to the end of September.

When does the monsoon reach Delhi?

Around 27 June on average, and it usually withdraws around 25 September.

Where can I go in India in July and August?

Ladakh is the classic choice, being a cold desert at altitude. Rajasthan has a shorter season. Kerala and Goa are lush but very wet.

Is it safe to trek in the Himalaya in the monsoon?

Landslides and flash floods are the main risk, and they can come with little warning. Choose routes in drier areas, go with a registered local operator and keep spare days.

Do flights and trains run during the monsoon?

Yes, but heavy rain can cause delays and cancellations. Leave a buffer before international connections.

Sources (15)

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