India GOLaws Tourists Don't See Coming
India's laws are in places stricter than you'd expect from a country with such free-flowing street life. This list isn't a legal reference; it's five minutes of reading that protects you from genuinely expensive mistakes while you're still packing.
Vapes: leave them at home
E-cigarettes are banned in India: their import, sale, distribution and commercial possession are prohibited. At the border the device can be held or confiscated, and having to prove it was only for personal use is a poor way to start a trip. The practical takeaway is simple: leave the vape at home. Ordinary cigarettes are legal; smoking in public places carries a fine, and airports have designated smoking areas.
Satellite devices and drones
Satellite phones and trackers (including the Garmin inReach) are illegal without a licence from the Department of Telecommunications. Travellers have faced detention and confiscation. For hikers: an ordinary phone plus offline maps; leave the inReach at home. Drones: importing one without a permit is prohibited, and flying is effectively off-limits to foreigners (Digital Sky registration requires Indian documents); at the border a drone must be declared in the red channel. Otherwise it's confiscated. Simpler not to bring one.
Alcohol: the map is trickier than it looks
- Dry states: Gujarat (tourists can get a free e-permit, valid 7 days, arranged online or through licensed hotels), Bihar, Mizoram, Nagaland.
- Dry days nationwide: 26 January, 15 August, 2 October (plus election days and a range of state holidays: on Holi and Janmashtami shops are closed in many states; sales stop, but drinking in your hotel isn't forbidden).
- Age: varies by state and shifts with local rules (from 18 in some to 25 in others; in Delhi it's currently 25), so check locally.
- Dry towns: in Pushkar, Rishikesh, Haridwar and Vrindavan there's no legal alcohol at all; these are holy towns (more in the city chapters).
Bhang yes, everything else no
Bhang occupies a special place in Indian law: the federal statute doesn't place cannabis leaves under the same regime as ganja and charas, but the sale and preparation of bhang are regulated by the individual states. Where it's permitted, buy it only from an officially licensed shop. Ganja, charas and any purchase "from the beach" or from a casual seller remain a criminal risk.
Customs on arrival
The green channel is a legal statement that "I have nothing to declare." Currency: you must declare cash over $5,000 in notes (or $10,000 in all forms). Goods are separate: drones and gold above the limits. In addition, equipment that looks like a commercial import, or professional gear brought in temporarily, may need to be declared or cleared under a temporary-import procedure. Indian rupees: tourists and non-residents are usually allowed to carry up to ₹25,000 in notes, with exceptions for certain routes; the rules change, so check the current CBIC/RBI guidance before you fly. A large leftover balance is best exchanged back, keeping the exchange receipt. Duty free: 2 L of alcohol, 100 cigarettes.
Small points of conduct
Public displays of affection (for any couple) aren't the done thing in conservative regions; Goa and the big cities are more relaxed. Same-sex relationships were decriminalised (2018) and society is calmer about it than it was, but restraint in public is the general rule for everyone. Photographing strategic sites (bridges, airports, military) is not allowed. In temples, take photos only where no sign forbids it; don't photograph people at the water or in prayer head-on.