Maha Ganapati Temple

A Ganesha of black stone, 1.3 metres tall and roughly fifteen centuries old, stands in a shrine barely bigger than a room a few steps from the Mahabaleshwara Temple. There is a dent in his head: by tradition the blow he took from Ravana, after the boy god put the Atmalinga down himself while the demon king was at his prayers, the moment Gokarna's founding story turns on. Pilgrims pay their respects here before entering the great temple. Entry is free, shoes come off at the door, and no photographs are taken inside.

The tiny shrine where Gokarna's temple round traditionally begins