Belekan Beach

Most people meet Belekan for four minutes: it is where the beach trek ends and where the small boats leave for Paradise, which no road reaches. Stay longer and the cove turns out to be the quietest stretch of this coast: mornings when dolphins surface offshore, evenings that belong to the village rather than to visitors. A road comes right down to it, which makes this the back door into the trek for anyone who would rather walk one leg than all five.

The unhurried, local end of the coast: dolphins at dawn, the boat shortcut to Paradise