Rajaji National Park

Sal forest and grassland along the southern rim of the valley: a tiger reserve better known for its elephants, and wild herds are the reason most people come. Leopard sightings happen often enough to be worth hoping for, while deer, nilgai and a long list of birds are close to certain. The nearest gate to the city is Mohand, twenty to twenty-five kilometres down the Saharanpur highway, with two safari slots a day, early morning and mid-afternoon, in registered jeeps; private cars stay outside. Core zones run from mid-November to mid-June and close for the monsoon; winter mornings are the best of it.

Wild elephants and cold winter light, a jeep ride from the edge of the city