Naya Bazar

Ajmer's main shopping street runs through the centre past the Government Museum, goldsmiths and silver workshops sitting next to woodwork shops and dealers in miniature painting. The counters worth slowing at are the ittar sellers: attar is scent distilled into a base oil rather than alcohol, and Ajmer's rose and khus trade has run since Jahangir held court here. Open roughly 9:00 to 21:00 or 22:00. Silver and attar are both negotiable, and before buying a perfume it is normal to ask what the concentration is and which oil it sits in.

Where the city itself shops: silver, woodwork and the attar counters behind the rose trade