India GOCooking class in Agra
The petha lanes at Noori Darwaza
Walk the lane where Agra's translucent ash-gourd sweet is boiled in open vats, past shops that sell it dry, syrup-soaked, saffron, paan and cherry, and taste the difference between a fresh one and the kind that travels.
Sold by weight; a box is inexpensive · shop hours; the making is a morning activity
The Sheroes Hangout cafe, run by acid-attack survivors
Eat in a cafe where the women running the counter are survivors of acid attacks, in a room set up to put them back in public life rather than to make a point of their faces.
Fixed menu at fixed prices; the pay-what-you-want model ended around 2020 · Any time the cafe is open
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